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Left to right: Pichet Ong, chef-owner of P*ONG restaurant and batch bakeshop; Kee Ling Tong, Chocolatièr, Kee's Chocolates; James Oseland, Editor in Chief, Saveur Magazine; Joan Coukos, Chocolatier & CEO, Chocolat Moderne; Kristy Choo, Pastry Chef, Jin Patisserie.
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NAC: You seem remarkably busy! What's a typical day at the shop like for you?
TONG: The day starts early, around seven-thirty or eight in the morning, and I'm sometimes there until nine at night! The morning involves a lot of prep. I bang out trays for bonbons, roll out truffles, fill the bonbons. Everything is done daily. I do all of my own fillings here. Chocolate is so particular. When it's your own recipe, it's hard to part with it, unless you're completely comfortable with the person you're working with! |
NAC: With so many flavors to choose from, it must be hard for your customers (or you!) to pick a favorite. Still, what seems to be the most popular?
TONG: I do have regular customers that come in once a week, and a favorite is the Crème Brûlée [a dark chocolate bonbon filled with crème brûlée]. The custard is homemade daily, but it doesn’t last for more than two days, so it's really best eaten within a day. I'd say that Crème Brûlée, Passion Fruit, and Champagne are the most popular. My favorite is the Passion Fruit – it's a dark chocolate ganache with passion fruit. All thirty-eight flavors are my own recipes, and I develop them through trial and error. |
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NAC: How do you get ideas for new flavors?
TONG: I eat out a lot, and when I see things on a dinner menu, I get ideas. For example, my Lemon Basil chocolate [dark and white chocolate combined with lemon and fresh basil], I was at a Thai restaurant having pad ki mow noodles. The basil was stir fried with the flat noodles and, for decoration, fresh basil was placed on top. Of course I've tasted basil before but it was just one of those things; an idea pops up and but lingers on. Basil has a very distinct smell and taste; it's good by itself, but with any citrus fruit the flavor is actually enhanced.
I thought that basil would be an interesting combination with chocolate, but too intense, so I wanted something to set it off with. That's why I decided to try lemon. |
NAC: Describe what your ideal chocolate would taste like.
TONG: I believe that with any food, the flavors have to come through, and that there must be a balance between the flavors. For instance, ginger; ginger cannot overpower the flavors of the chocolate. There has to be a clean finish after swallowing, not an after taste of either the ginger or the chocolate. Or with my favorite, the Passion Fruit--it has to be tart, but you still want that chocolate taste.
NAC: Will you do any specialty flavors for the upcoming holidays?
TONG: I usually do pumpkin truffles for Thanksgiving. The Champagne is really popular then, too, because you can actually taste the bubbles inside, combined with the dark chocolate ganache. After all, around the holidays, everyone wants to celebrate.
Kee's Chocolates is located at 80 Thompson St., New York, NY. 212.334.3284. For more information, including a full menu, please visit www.keeschocolates.com |
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