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AT THE TABLE WITH SAERI YOO PARK

 

NAC: Your website says that you like to reconstruct traditional Korean dishes while reflecting current trends in Korean dining. What are some of those trends?

PARK: What I'm seeing on the current scene in Seoul is interesting. In America, I feel like the dining experience in the Koren community is a little behind what's going on in Korea. Korea is being exposed to the world, to different cuisines. Palates are changing. The young generation is not how we grew up; they're more multi-palated, and a lot more sophisticated.

NAC: Moim is in the Brooklyn neighborhood Park Slope, which has a reputation for being hip and colorful. Do find yourself at all influenced by Moim's geography?

PARK: This neighborhood is full of very open minded, well educated, sophisticated people. I decided to open Moim here because I feel like there are people in this community that will appreciate different kinds of flavors. There are a lot of Italian restaurants here, a lot of Thai and Chinese food, but [before Moim opened] there wasn't any Korean cuisine in this neighborhood. My influence is not just the neighborhood. I've been here in the U.S. longer than I lived in Korea. Being in the U.S. is what influenced me--adopting American culture and combining it with the foods that I grew up with.

NAC: What would you say are some of the most unusual dishes on Moim's menu?

PARK: There's a traditional dish called Samgyetang--the literal translation is "Chicken Ginseng Soup". I have a dish [Dak Gui] that's based on it. This chicken is done in Korea by being stuffed with ingredients and boiled for a long time. The way I changed it is-- and this is what I mean by deconstructing--I cook the chicken separately from the rest of the ingredients. I use exactly the same flavors and I make a brine, and brine the for 6-8 hours to absorb the flavor. Then I use a French technique; I pan-fry the chicken and finish it in the oven. Then, the sauce is made separately, with the exact same ingredients as the chicken is boiled with in Korea-- Ginseng, dates, chestnut, potato, licorice root. The end result is just as complex, flavor wise, but the preparation is new. It's the same with my cod dish, Un Dae Gu. Usually, the cod is simmered with Korean daikon and red pepper paste. I separate all the different ingredients, cooking the cod separately. We also have very traditional dishes. l don' t really change anything with those. I follow the steps of exactly executing it right. Honestly, all of the dishes give me excitement.

NAC: This issue of NAC is all about the winter holidays. What are your favorite holiday foods?

PARK: Traditionally, for the New Year, we eat rice cake soup. Regionally, people use different ingredients. We usually say that if you eat one bowl of this on the New Year's day, as you get one year older, you get that much wiser. I'm thinking of serving it New Year's Eve this year, just for the fun. I don't' know if people will appreciate it. Certain foods you grew up with make you comfortable. Food can be a very intimate experience.

Moim
206 Garfield Place
Brooklyn, NY 11215
Phone: (718) 499-8092
www.moimrestaurant.com

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