PICHET ONG'S HOLIDAY COOKIES Pichet Ong, P*ONG, NY

Method

Sift together the flour, sugar, and baking soda and set aside. Put the almond flour, butter, and salt into the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Paddle on medium speed until the mixture resembles cornmeal, 3 minutes. With the machine running, add the egg and almond extract and mix until well-incorporated. Turn the speed to low and add the flour mixture. Mix just until no traces of flour remain.

Transfer the dough to a large sheet of plastic wrap, flatten into a 1-inch thick disc, cover tightly, and refrigerate until hard, at least 30 minutes. When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 325°F and line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

Form the dough into 1/2-inch balls and put on the baking sheets 1 inch apart. Use the palm of your hand to press the balls into 1-inch circles. Press 4 slivered almonds into each cookie, decoratively arranging them to look like an X. Brush the tops of the cookies with the egg white, then bake until golden and crisp around the edges, 15 minutes. Cool completely on the cookie sheet and serve or store in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

Chef's Quote
These are a staple in traditional Chinese restaurants. Unfortunately, the store-bought variety tends to be hard and tasteless. But this version is wonderfully light, with a crisp edge and chewy center. The traditional cookies are also a dull, dark yellow from an egg yolk wash. I use an egg white wash to get the same glazed effect in a creamy shimmer. Finally, the slivered almonds on top add a nice crunch and a fresh, toasted nut flavor.

PISTACHIO ROSE THUMBPRINT ALMOND COOKIES

Certain flavors and spices of India are almost indistinguishable from those of Persia, and for good reason. When the Moghuls entered India in the sixteenth century, they brought along Persian culinary influences that mingled with the indigenous cooking of Northern India. Rich nuts, like pistachio, and heady aromatics, like rose, became staples. As for me, I’ve found that taking one tradition—American thumbprint cookies—and combining it with another—Indian pistachio and rose flavors—makes for one excellent cookie.

Ingredients
Makes 3 dozen

1 1/4 cups (177 grams, 6 1/3 ounces) all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup (122 grams, 4 1/3 ounces) unsalted and shelled pistachios
3/4 cup (169 grams, 6 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 8-ounce package cream cheese, at room temperature
2 tablespoons fresh orange zest
3/4 cup (157 grams, 5 5/8 ounces) sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 large egg
1 tablespoon fresh orange juice
3 tablespoons rose jam, or other fruit jam

Method

Sift the flour and baking powder together and set aside. Put the pistachios into the bowl of a food processor and process until the nuts become a fine powder. Do not over process or the mixture will become pistachio butter. You can also crush the nuts by putting them in a heavy-duty plastic bag and pounding with a heavy skillet.

Put the ground pistachios, butter, cream cheese, orange zest, sugar, and salt into the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Cream on medium speed until the mixture is light and fluffy, 5 minutes. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, turn the machine to medium speed, and mix in the egg and orange juice. Turn the speed to low and add the flour mixture in two additions. Mix just until no traces of flour remain. You can also make this dough by hand. Crush the pistachios in a heavy duty plastic bag with a heavy skillet and mix the ingredients by hand in the order listed above.

Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Form the dough into 1-inch balls and put 2 inches apart on the baking sheets. Chill in the refrigerator until firm, about 30 minutes.

When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350ºF. Use your thumb to make a 1/2-inch deep indentation in the center of each ball. Fill each “thumbprint” with 1/4 teaspoon jam and bake for 10 minutes. Cool on a cooling rack and serve or store in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

Chef’s Tip
If you can’t find rose jam, which is available in most Indian, Middle Eastern, and gourmet markets, you can substitute another aromatic fruit jam like strawberry.

SPICED COCONUT BROWNIE

The combination of chocolate and coconut has long been a favorite pairing of mine. It tastes exotic, but it’s also immediately likeable. When used as the foundation for a brownie, the result is a chewy square with long-lasting flavor—not unlike a great candy bar. In this recipe, unsweetened coconut takes the place of excess flour for a rich, decadent brownie that tastes more chocolately than most. A pinch of spice goes a long way in this simple but sophisticated bittersweet treat.

Ingredients

Nonstick baking vegetable oil spray
5 cups (340 grams, 12 1/8 ounces) finely shredded unsweetened dried coconut
1 cup (155 grams, 5 1/2 ounces) all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
2 1/4 cups (510 grams, 18 1/4 ounces) unsalted butter
18 ounces bittersweet chocolate, roughly chopped
7 ounces unsweetened chocolate, roughly chopped
2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, optional
7 large eggs, at room temperature
2 1/4 cups (458 grams, 16 1/3 ounces) sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 cup (198 grams, 7 ounces) semi-sweet chocolate chips

Method

Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Spray a 12 X 17-inch rimmed baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray, line with parchment paper, and spray again. Set aside.

Spread the coconut on another rimmed baking sheet and toast in the oven until light brown and fragrant, 7 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, sift together the flour and baking powder and set aside. Melt the butter, bittersweet chocolate, unsweetened chocolate, salt, and cayenne, if so desired, together in a double boiler or in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of gently simmering water, stirring occasionally to blend. When completely melted and smooth, remove from the heat.

Put the eggs in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whisk at medium speed until frothy. With the machine running, add the sugar and continue to whisk until the mixture is pale yellow, thick, and doubled in volume, 8 minutes. Add the vanilla and mix to incorporate. Turn the mixer speed to low, add the melted chocolate in a slow, steady stream, and whisk for 2 minutes. Remove the bowl from the mixer, fold in the flour mixture, the cooled toasted coconut, and chocolate chips.

Spread the batter evenly into the prepared pan and bake for 15 minutes, then rotate the pan and bake until a tester comes out barely clean, another 10 minutes. The surface should be dry to the touch. Cool in the pan and serve.

Chef’s Tip
You need to cool these brownies for at least one hour before enjoying them warm and at least two hours before you can cut them cleanly into squares. If you eat these brownies too soon after baking, the heat of the cayenne pepper may be overpowering.

Recipe excerpted from
The Sweet Spot: Asian-Inspired Desserts (William Morrow, 2007)